



a multi-disciplinary design & research expedition in Ghana
Yes, it is old, and yes it is ripped in a million places, but this pair of old Converse shoes has been with me wherever I went. Four continents, countless adventures later I decided to retire them in Africa, in the little village Todze. I left them with Sam, the man who has dedicated by far the most time and energy to the school. He started on site at 6a.m. every morning, and he worked non-stop until 6 p.m. everyday. He saw every drop of sweat and every ache on his shoulder as a small way to give back to the village, where him and his three siblings grew up. I learned that his father past away when he was young, and because of that he and his siblings were unable to afford education. He does small jobs in the village and in Accra in hope that one day he can go to school, and that one day he can travel out of Africa to see the world that is ever so alluring through his imagination. I know this pair of shoes may look worthless, but I hope that one day it too can take Sam somewhere beautiful and unexpected.
It’s the first time since the beginning of construction that we have had a half-day off. There are two funerals in Todze this weekend, and it is a local tradition that all work for the day stops before 2p.m. We were all super excited about the prospect of visiting a waterfall and maybe the neighbouring Togo. I will spare you the details, but we didn’t end up going to neither the waterfall nor Togo. Nevertheless, the shear thought and luxury of being able to have a half-day to use on our own discretion was able to put us back to the Bob Marley mood on the bus. On the way back, many students ventured off to Ho Market to pick up fabrics and souvenirs. Not a second too soon as we jumped off the bus, did the tropical rain engulf the town. I stuck with Kara, Andrea, and Tricia as we quickly ducked under the leaky canopies of the market place. The paths are filled with muddy, red, storm water that formed a stream. The rapids, created by the changing grades, swallowed our shoes and foot whole (I suppose we witnessed the waterfall after all). We finally found shelter under the roof of a fabric store, all the mesmerizing patterns and prints shows off the proud textile industry in Ghana. We spent 25 minutes browsing and bartering with the lady at the store (it is pretty typical to barter at the market- especially as a “Yevu”= foreigner – otherwise, you are just a floating wallet waiting to be ripped off), while the rain persisted. At this point, we were hopelessly drenched, but high spirited about hunting down some Kenti (hand weaved cloths). The only place that produces Kenti cloth near by is named “Albert’s Kenti Weaving Centre”. If you get the impression of it being a huge facility with multiple weaver, then you would be as surprised as I was when I realized the Kenti cloths are produced by Albert himself under a tin structure in front of his mud brick house; that is not to say anything negative about his Kenti cloths though. In fact, the vibrant colours and intricate patterns give each cloth an irresistible charm. I had to vigorously restrain myself to not have over-spent. This little excursion on our otherwise routined days gave us a great opportunity to witness some of the local crafts, and local life that made us even more appreciative of life in Ghana.
There is a kind of grandeur about Africa, whether it is the magnificent landscape, the spectacular display of their vibrant and diverse culture and people, or the long standing connection to a way of life that has been long lost in western civilization. Much like my travel to China couple of summers ago, I was once again shocked by how much tasks people here are able to accomplish with simple tools. Or on the flip side, how much we have come to depend on the help of electronics. Will we, in western civilization, parish if all electronics suddenly fails (much like the Y2K scare)? Or would we find our way back to the way people live here, where the achievability of a task is depended much on manpower rather than the artificially inflated capabilities of electronic tools? It makes me wonder if the rapid advancement in technology has spoiled our ability to perform monumental tasks, like that of the great walls, the pyramids, and other stunning example of timeless monuments, with the bare hands we are given and the simple tool we build? Furthermore, in my frustration with the Internet’s speed, I realized living in the city had me completely subscribed to the era of lightning-fast accessibility as oppose to taking my good old time to actually live life. I think while electronics have brought a lot more comfort and convenience to our lives, the seemingly incomparable consequence of dependency are too often being ignored and forgotten. This is quite an alarming thought in this world, where shortage of resources, especially energy, is becoming more menacing to our common future.
Thank you for all the very positive comments! I am really honoured that you are able to share the experiences with everyone on this trip! I know quite a few followers are family members of the team, and there are many others who are interested in the mission. I think I speak for everyone when I say that it feels like you are here with us to share all the good stuff, bad stuff and the very funny stuff, and that is often enough to get us through a tough day! On a personal level, the blog has allowed me the chance to regularly inventory my thoughts and feelings about my experience here. The distillation of my observations has really given me a better appreciation of not only my life, but also everybody else’s life. It truly has contributed to my journey, and made it the trip of my lifetime.
As the days get longer and longer on site and the deadline draws ever closer to us, two things begin to happen: First came the topic of food! All the yummy stuff from back home we just so badly want to have in front of us. Though a good Ghanaian dish can easily rival any other cuisine on my account, the shear variety, quality, or the out right simplicity of foods we have in Toronto is something that is very easy to yearn for. Just to give all the parents a heads up, the group had unanimously voted for rich, moist dark chocolate mouse cake as the top item to charge towards when we get home. Second to the talk of our food cravings is the growing discontent with the group leader. Despite personal stress and large responsibilities, his dismissive attitude towards students’ time, effort, opinions, and capabilities in conjunction with his short temperament made the already fractured relationship between him and everyone else crumble even faster. It is truly regretful that our mutual dismay for him has begun to over take some of the fondness of this trip.
With the opening of the school a week away from Tuesday morning, the team begins charging full throttle towards the finish line. Along with the locals, hired carpenters, masons, benders, and us, there are over 50 people swarming the site (I can only imagine the parallel between us and the ants that constantly trails through the periphery of our site). Groups of people are delegated different tasks from putting up the roof structure, pargeting the walls, filling and leveling the courtyard, building latrines, all the way to completing the classroom furniture. All these processes are more delicate than all the digging and pouring work we have been doing, subsequently it became much more tedious to learn the carpenters and masons’ techniques that made electric tools look as unnecessary than a wool sweater. Although the many of us are feeling pretty exhausted from working 10 hour days everyday, the hopes of creating new and improved classrooms kept us going. The works aren’t always the most interesting, so the sideline discussions, the silly fun we would have (that got captured on video or photographs) often becomes highlights of our days. Of course, we often derive the most amusement out of watching the time lapse for each day, where we get a very different perspective on how the day was spent (and as I have discovered in multiple footages, people does a lot more walking in circles than they believe). It really feels quite amazing to be able to work with a group of people who are connected by their hunger and passion for change.
I knew my first aid bag would come in handy when I was packing for Ghana, but what I didn’t know is that it would make the local mistake me as an actual doctor. In the past couple of weeks as the locals observed me in first aid action, I have been getting more and more questions about health everyday. But it wasn’t until yesterday when someone tried to consult me about erectile dysfunction did I realize that I need to constantly reiterate that I am not a doctor…
As Jeno and I stood on the side of the road and watched the mini bus drive out of sight, we couldn’t help but wonder what this night in Kpedze would entail. The minister, Maxwell, had graciously invited us to stay at his family home to experience life after dark in the village. By 6:30, the daylight had completely vanished behind the hills that surround the village, Goats and Chickens roamed the main street calling their family members home. We sat at Maxwell’s front porch, at his semi-completed new home, for our first authentic Ghanaian supper. The first entre was Fufu (mashed sticky yam) with a spicy antelope stew. It is customary to eat with your right hand only, it took Jane and I about half of the meal to finally learn the proper technique to pinch the Fufu and slurp it down. The stew that the Fufu came with was a true delight, a blend of spices in a Tomato broth with antelope meat (that the bullet was hiding in) made this dish not only finger-licking good, but also one of my favourite thus far. After we finished cleaning off our greasy hands, Maxwell took us to the night market in the neighbouring town to pick-up salads for the next entre. It took about 10 minutes across rough terrain (AKA the local dirt road) in the dark of night to get to the barely lit main street of the neighbouring town, where the night market is held. Candle light flickers on the smaller stands, while electric lights dimly illuminates the stores to make the street a cavalcade of light. The locals casually hung around their doorsteps and many others drifted up and down the street with chatters and laughter. This scene was perhaps the farthest thing from that of Dundas square or Time Square, yet there is a much more distinct sense of urbanity. We spent a good half hour touring the street and picked up salads, sweet beard, and chilled Stars (my daily bear) along the way before we head back to Maxwell’s place. Over the course of dinner, we got to meet some of his family and spoke to his daughter and brother on the phone. It was a fabulous feeling to be welcomed to his family (and to be mistaken on several occasions as Jackie Chan). It was a night of great intrigue as Jeno, Maxwell, his brother Emanuel, and I exchange tails of our countries. The more I talked with them, the more I was amazed by their views of the world; by that I mean a world built on trust and co-existence. To me, their ability to cope with life and be thankful for what they have actualized my belief about an instinctual connection between people of all kinds. The night in Kpedze had just become extraordinary.
Hi! I am writing on behalf of the Ryerson Early Childhood Education (ECE) students who are apart of this project. During our stay in Ghana we are consulted on the classroom space as well as we teach in the classroom with teachers and review the curriculum documents used.
The school is in rough shape but the students and teachers come everyday with a smile. The classroom supplies are in desperate need of replacing but it is surprising what you can make do with what you have. The teachers have been warm and welcoming. They are excited for us to be here and are always asking us to show them new ways of doing things in the classroom. The children are taught in the classical rows of desks and chalkboard technique, which isn’t the most optimal way to teach kindergarten children.
One thing I noticed that interested me is the new workbooks the children have. They receive new workbooks every year, which were created in partnership with the Ministry of Education in Ghana as well as George W. Bush’s African Education Initiative. Looks like he did something right in office!
Apologies for the long post, I will report again later. By the way, the pictures shown are of the old kindergarten building, Melanie Mendes reading a story and myself teaching doing a review of numbers with the children. The other ECE student, Vathsala Sinnarajah will be featured in our next post.
Patrick Molicard-Chartier
My experience in Ghana thus far has been a pretty even mix of good and bad. One thing, though, that has been consistently intriguing to me is the village women. They never seize to amaze me with their fun-loving attitudes, incredible strength and the most infectious laughs. For the past few days we have been working on the buildings’ foundations. Every morning the women would arrive bright and early with buckets, make no mistake these ladies aren’t here to spectate between their house hold choirs, but they are here and ready to do some heavy lifting. From the gravels to the mixed concrete or even the concrete blocks, they seem to be able to transport bucket full of stuff with unbeatable stamina while keeping up with the chatters and laughter. It inspired me to try to do the same, but all I accomplished was a head full of sand that made our already disastrous hotel bathroom even worse. I think there is something tremendous about these women, they don’t live materially rich lives, but they certainly seem to live rich spiritually. In many ways, Canadian visitors to Ghana are perceived by the villagers to be people who live wealthy and educated lives. While there might be some truth to the stereotype, I felt much more comfortable in this environment where people are simply genuine and honest. It is amazing when they feel that they can relate to us (i.e. when we clumsily try to learn their language and their culture or when we try to bring buckets on our heads), because it is a true honor to see and in a small way part-take in these women’s lives.
The village where we are building the school is about a half hour drive away from our hotel. The road to the village is surprisingly well paved, but within the village it was more like a roller coaster ride down muddy puddles. Much like our other experiences here, we attracted many curious eye of villagers and commuters along the way. We drove pass the site of the school that looked like it was briefly cleared prior to our arrival, it is barely recognizable from what we seen in the pictures. The kids in the village are delirious to see so many visitors of so many different colours (like a bag of M&Ms). They waste no time to cozy up to us and they are always ready to pose for the cameras. We went into the chief’s house and were seated in the living room for our final design consultation with the village chief and the elders. It was a long and intense meeting in a small space that seemed warmer with every breath we take. The women and the children casuals hangs around the yard, occasionally peak into the living room with curiosity. There are chickens and kittens running around in the yard, the whole picture reminds me much of my childhood growing up in the countryside of Taiwan. Couple hours went by before the chief and our group leaders finally shook hand in agreement of the design. We headed for the site just a couple minutes away behind the chief’s house, it was a piece of land about 30 meters x 30 meters with a beautiful breeze coming from the northeast. The beautiful surrounding, the incredible hospitality, and the very warm and lovely people paint an entirely new impression of Africa that goes much beyond my expectations…oh by the way, the guy in the last picture has been missing since Wednesday! (PARENTS PLEASE DON’T PANIC!)